Benchmark Wine Tasting Class: Aromatic Whites

Back in mid-January, I had the privilege to participate in a Benchmark Wine Tasting at Penn State University with the Penns Woods Winery crew. Needless to say, for a wine-nerd like me, it was an awesome experience! First of all, I got to taste approximately 30 different wines - made with different varietals and produced in different regions. But as an added bonus, it was interesting (and somewhat refreshing) to not be the biggest wine nerd in the room!

This series will discuss the wines that were tasted and provided an overview of the region and/or grape of each wine. To keep the posts (relatively) short, the series will be broken up into multiple posts, organized by the flights we tasted. First up, we tasted a flight of aromatic whites, including three Rieslings and two Gewürztraminers. I will also discuss the two Moscatos that we tasted at the end of the day, since Moscato (while sweet) is typically a highly aromatic white wine.

(Above are some of the labels we tried. These images are intended to identify the producer and not necessarily the specify wine/vintage).

So what is the definition of aromatic?

Webster's tells us that, generally, the term "aromatic" means "having a pleasant and distinctive smell." But, we know know that when it comes to wine - everything has multiple definitions. When I hear aromatic, I think white wine. I expect a strong, fruit-forward or almost floral, aroma from the wine. Officially speaking, wine professionals agree the most common winemaking techniques used in the production of "aromatic wines" include: fermentation in stainless steel or concrete and harvesting the grapes later in the harvest to yield high acidity and low alcohol wines.

So what should you look for in the wine store if you want an aromatic white? The most popular varietals include: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier. For now, our discussions will stick to a comparison of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Moscato.

Photo Source. The International Riesling Foundation (a fine foundation indeed!)

Riesling.

Call me a broken record, but Riesling has a bad rep... especially in the United States. Americans either love it or hate it, but most assume its a honeyed sugar bomb. I can not say it enough -- drop the Riesling assumptions and taste with an open mind. The blog has discussed Riesling a few times, check out the feature here, but we have yet to dedicate a full tasting to this noble grape. Before I give you my thoughts on the individual Rieslings, remember the grape's best qualities, including:

• Ability to withstand cooler climates, 
• Notably food friendly, and
• Light body and naturally high acidity.

Nimble Hill Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Pennsylvania, specifically Sugar Holland Vineyard.

My Thoughts. The room was amazed at the complexity of this Pennsylvania Riesling. I thought it was tart (in a good way), astringent and high acidity, with flavors of stone fruit and citrus.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was tart as well, but not nearly as astringent when tasted. The group thought it tasted of citrus, grapefruit and even petrol. (not sure where some get this taste from - I'm looking into it!)

S.A. Prum Kabinett Riesling 2009

Where it's from. Mosel, Germany.

My Thoughts. I think one of the reasons Americans (and wine-drinkers internationally) fear Riesling is the ever-daunting German wine label. Germans are nothing if not thorough, and so are the wine labels. So when you see "Kabinett" on the label, remember that the wine was made with late harvest grapes that can be semi-sweet or dry (trocken). When I tasted this wine, I was definitely intrigued. When I heard "Kabinett" I assumed it would be on the sweeter side - I was so wrong. It had a subtle sweet apple flavor without the overpowering honey.

Photo Source.

Gewürztraminer.

Gewürztraminer is distinguishable from Riesling because it has only moderate acidity and is full-bodied. It's primarily grown in the Alsace region of France. I notice the prominent bouquet of aromas from this grape, including: rose, passion fruit and lychee. 

Paul Buecher Gewürztraminer 2011

Where it's From. Alsace, France.

My Thoughts. This wine was awesome. It had a powerful floral aroma including rose and honeysuckle. But the taste was completely different from the aroma. It had an almost hoppy flavor, spicy up front with a mellow finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewürztraminer 2010

Where it's From. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was mild in flavor. Drinkable but nothing to write home about.

Photo Source. 

Moscato.

"Moscato" is the Italian name for the Muscat grape. It is known for making semi-sweet, lightly sparkling, and low alcohol wines

Montefiori Moscato

Where it's From. Piedmont, Italy. Moscato is most commonly grown near the northern town of Asti (hence the term Moscato D'Asti, meaning Moscato from Asti).

My Thoughts. This wine totally surprised me. As a fan of red wine and dryer reds I was expected to not enjoy this wine. But I loved it! (As did most of the room). It had a beautiful aroma of rose water, honeysuckle and lemon. It tasted similarly to it's smell and was wonderfully fresh. We compared it to Barefoot Moscato, which even given the price, was flat and less enjoyable than the Montefiori version.

All in all -- it was a great day of tasting wine! Stand by for follow up posts from this benchmark tasting series!

Cheers!

Wine Winter Project: Jean-Claude Dagueneau Domaine des Berthiers Pouilly-Fume

“Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm. ”

— Ralph Waldo Emerson

As much as I love Ralph Waldo Emerson, describing my passion for this next style of wine as "enthusiastic" may be a bit of an understatement. In this post, I will review of one of my personal favorites, Pouilly-Fume! 

Every time I start a new post, I look back to see what I have written on the topic previously. Since the blog is relatively young, I usually find a few sparse details. However, when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, specifically the French style from Pouily-Fume, there is an abundance of information on the topic already. (Not surprising, since it's delicious!). If you want a review my earlier posts, be sure to check out my comparison of California style Sauvignon Blanc with a Pouilly-Fume from France here. I also discussed Pouilly-Fume in my French Wine 101 magna-post.

But today the focus is on Pouilly-Fume, so let's get to it! When I initially tasted Pouilly-Fume, I assumed that the "Fume" meant the wine may have a smokey flavor. While there are many theories on this, most industry people (including Kevin Zraly - a favorite!) suggest that the name came from the "white morning mist that blankets the area." Personally, I think the "Fume" stands for steely gun barrel and minerality with a citrus finish. I know, what a crazy description, but when you taste it you will understand what I mean! A few final facts, this wine is not typically aged in wood and ready to drink within three to five years.

Remember to note the distinction between Pouilly-Fume (Sauvignon Blanc from Loire Valley) and Pouilly-Fuisse (Chardonnay from Loire Valley). 

Jean-Claude Dagueneau Domaine des Berthiers Pouilly-Fume

(2009)

Grapes. 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Where it's From. Pouilly-Fume AOC, located within the Loire Valley. Pouilly-Fume is considered within the Central Vineyards (called Central because they are located within the center of France, not the Loire Valley). The climate is continental. The soil consists primarily of clay and limestone topped with gravel and flinty pebbles (flint = gun barrel).

Alcohol. 12.5%

Winemaker's Notes. No official winemaker's notes were readily available, but the Wine Spectator did give it a 90.

My Thoughts. This was a total impulse buy that gave me a bit of sticker shock at the register, since it cost $24. Now even with the tax-free shopping available in the great state of Delaware, this is a bit over my usual price range for a weeknight wine. However, just the smell alone reminded me immediately of how much I love this style of wine. It smelled of steely citrus, spice and green pepper. The taste was much softer than the aroma - I expected an acid bomb - but it was super smooth and mouthwatering with a hint of lemon. I would argue that the wine is the best choice for sipping - it would really thrive if paired with food. I was thinking fish, or similar seafood, with a citrus based sauce.

Cheers!

Winter Wine Project: Red Knot Shiraz

I don't know what it is about this Winter Wine Project, but each time I write a new review the weather is at least 15 degrees colder. That's right folks, I'm writing my latest wine review while its a balmy 7 degrees outside. Sounds like perfect red wine drinking weather to me.

Surprisingly,  this is one of the firsts posts discussing wines made in Australia. But the Aussies can definitely hold there own when it comes to New World wine-making. Australia is the 4th largest exporter of wine. The key wine regions are located primarily in the south, including: South Australia, South Wales, Victoria and Western Australia. The major grape varietals grown here are Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Semillon, and Riesling. Wines are typically labeled by the grape varietal and the labeled grape must constitute  at least 85% of the blend.

A fun fact about Australia, GSM blends are very popular. GSM stands for a common red blend made of Grenache, Shiraz and  Mourvèdre. This blend was traditionally associated with Southern Rhône, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  The most famous label out of Australia (which I'm sure you have seen once or twice) is Penfolds Grange. Now let's get to the real wine review.

Red Knot Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia (2012)

Grapes: 92% Shiraz, 8% Grenache.

Where it's From: Southern Australia, grapes source from McLaren Vale Vineyard.

Alcohol: 14%

Winemaker's Notes: Deep magenta color. Aromas of black cherry, strawberry, milk chocolate with hints of roasted coffee and vanilla. The palate comprises of summer berries balanced with mild tannin and fresh acidity. Medium body.

My Thoughts:  This wine only gets better the more you allow it to breathe. I feel like a broken record, but I almost every red I drink definitely benefits from decanting. Initially, I thought this wine was off-balanced, but after decanting to really opened up. The berry fruit flavors became more prominent and it was very smooth. Definitely uncomplicated, but very drinkable. 

Until next time, Cheers!

Winter Wine Project: A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir

Get excited for the first wine review for 2014 - a Pinot Noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley, produced by A to Z Wineworks!

I love January! It's a fresh start, everyone has new goals and is excited for the new year. And if you celebrate Christmas, then you may have some extra pep in your step after receiving a perfect gift or two. One of my favorite gifts of the season was a wine tasting journal given to me by my sister. Lately, I have been keeping track of my wine tastings through various wine apps, but  I would argue serious wine tasters should invest in a journal. Writing down your thoughts forces you to slow down and think about the wine in greater detail. The drawback? - it's yet another thing to carry and you will likely look like the biggest nerd at the dinner table. My advice, carry a big bag. (As for looking like a nerd, I'll get back to you on that one).

Another outstanding value from the great state of Oregon. And the people at A to Z Wineworks are winemakers after my own heart, offering "Aristocratic Wines are Democratic Prices." (I love a good political pun, even more so when its paired with wine). A to Z Wineworks is located in Willamette Valley, along with approximately 200 other wineries. The region is known for its cool climate and increasingly popular Pinot Noirs.

Let's nerd out about weather for a second. The weather during the growing season is extremely important to wine quality. The 2011 vintage for Willamette Valley was full of surprises. Early on it seemed that the vintage was going to be disastrous, with large grape production and a concern that it would never get warm enough for the grapes to ripen. Eventually, some late fall weather saved the vintage and the results have been comparable to other quality years. Overall, I think it affect of weather on wine would better explained through a vertical tasting (the same wine across different vintages) - a hopeful goal for 2014! Now, let's get to the specifics...

A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2011.

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir.

Where it's From: Willamette Valley, Oregon. The grapes for this wine are sourced from multiple vineyards across Willamette Valley.

Alcohol: 13%

Professional Notes: Apricot, bing cherry, white pepper, sweet tobacco. 

My Thoughts: Initially, I felt this wine was off balanced. It was a beautiful garnet color and a mild cherry aroma, but the taste seemed to be dominated by the alcohol. It wasn't undrinkable, it just seemed to be on mute. However, after 20 minutes the wine really softened and tasted delicious. The initial tastes were complimented by the subtle yet spicy finish.

Generally, this is the first wine from the Winter Wine Project that didn't wow me immediately, but did grow on me over time. Pinot Noir is a tough grape, especially when selling at bargain prices, and 2011 was a tough vintage. So in light of those factors, I would still recommend this wine to a friend, but would recommend decanting it before drinking. Stay tuned for the next wine - Red Knot Shiraz from Australia.

Cheers!

Winter Wine Project: A.A. Badenhorst Family Chenin Blanc

My winter wine project is officially underway! I decided to start with Chenin Blanc from South Africa - why, you may ask? - mostly because I thought it would go well with my dinner that night. Plus, if my first trip to the wine store is any indicator, it is going to be very difficult to find 10 wines on this list, let alone the 25 I hope to taste. But let's get this show on the road!

First, let's hit some background on the wine region (my personal favorite) - South Africa. I have had several very interesting wines from this region and look forward to the wines of the future. South Africa has 4 main wine regions: Klein Karoo, Breede River Valley, Olifants River Valley and the Coastal Region. The Coastal Region includes the most well-known districts, such as, Darling, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Swartland. This wine comes from Swartland, which is known for it's non-conformist winemakers who like to push the envelope. Perfect - let's get to tasting!

A.A. Badenhorst Family Chenin Blanc Swartland Secatuers 2012

Grapes:  100% Chenin Blanc. This grape is known for its good acidity levels, thin skin and high natural sugar levels. Thus, you will commonly see it in sparkling or sweet wines. Though it is growing in popularity with dry versions.

Where it's from:  There is a lot going on with this label - so much so I had to throw a few words into Google to double check whether they were indicators of the winery or not. The wine was made in the Swartland wine region of South Africa. The term "Secateurs" is a brand name of the A.A. Badenhorst Family winery.

Winemaker's Notes:  Wine was matured for 7 months on it's gross lees.*

Alcohol: 14%

What the label says:  "Flinty with honey, orange blossom and white stone fruit notes."

My thoughts:  First, I am so excited for this project because of how much I am learning already. Specifically, I learned that *gross lees typically refers to the size of debris (grape skins, seeds, stems, yeast, etc) that sits at the bottom of the fermented with the juice. Winemaker's typically filter the juice to remove these debris systematically until you end you with clear fermented grape juice, aka WINE. Maturing wine with gross lees for too long and lead to some issues later on with regard unintended chemical reactions, so I definitely thought this was an interesting winemaker choice. Regardless, the wine was delicious! It had a crisp aroma, clear elements of fresh minerality. The taste was as expected for chenin blanc, biting acidity with fresh fruit flavors. Definitely a great start to the winter wine project!

Up next -- 2012 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Washington State and A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir from Oregon.

Happy Holidays and Cheers!

Photo Confessions: Winter Wine Project

Hey there Wine-Nerds! I am excited to announce a new winter wine project - tasting and reviewing Wine Spectator's 100 Outstanding Values.

View fullsize

Now this month's WS featured "The Top 100: The Most Exciting Wines of 2013." Usually, I don't put much value in these top 100 lists as there are many factors at play beyond the quality of wine, such as politics, personal bias, or the weather that day. But, I figured I would see what made WS's list of favorites anyway. As I read, I was very (and I repeat very) disappointed to see so few wines in the top 100 for a reasonable price (aka below $20). 

However, I was quickly corrected when I discovered another feature for "100 Outstanding Values." Now, this list did not get the 20 page spread that the favorites of 2013 received, but I figured I would give a shout out to these noteworthy wines by reviewing them myself individually.

Here is the game plan: I hope to taste at least a quarter the list within the upcoming months (since some labels may be hard to find). I will let you know if the wine lives up to its "top 100 outstanding value" ranking from my perspective, as your friendly neighborhood wine-nerd. Plus, I will provide some history/general information on the grapes that make up the wine as well. (Because history is the best).

I hope you may be interested in joining the winter wine project and taste some of the wines yourself! I look forward to your comments!

Happy Holidays and Cheers!

Sauvignon Blanc Comparison: Pouilly-Fume vs. California

Dear Enthusiasts! It is no secret that Sauvignon Blanc is my favorite grape. It's made into delicious wine all over the world - New Zealand, Australia, and South Africa. However, this post focuses on Sauvignon Blanc made in two key regions: California

and

 Pouilly-Fume.

A few reminders on the awesomeness of the Sauvignon Blanc grape: the taste is most commonly described as grassy, bell peppers, asparagus, and even cirtrus fruits. Sauvignon Blanc is both lighter and less expensive than the traditional Chardonnay Americans reach for.

(1) Honig 2012 Sauvignon Blanc

Grapes:

 97% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Semillion, 1% Muscadet

Where its From:

 Napa Valley. This label also has a Sauvignon Blanc specifically from Rutherford - obviously for a larger price tag - I'd love to hear a comment if the extra bucks are worth it.

Alcohol:

 13.5%

Comments:

 Wine was aged 90% in steel tanks, 10% in neutral oak.

The label says...

 zippy acidity lends a crisp freshness to tropical flavors of mango, kiwi, lemongrass & freshly squeezed grapefruit. Juicy and refreshing, with aromas of honeysuckle, peach and grapefruit rind. Medium bodied, with a smooth, minerally finish.

I thought...

 this wine is definitely a grapefruit bomb! Balanced - but grapefruit bomb. Don't get me wrong it was a great wine and I would definitely drink it again, but the Pouilly-Fume just seemed more complex and interesting.

(2) Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2012 Pouilly-Fume

Grapes:

 Sauvignon Blanc

Where its From:

 AOC Pouilly-Fume (Eastern part of Loire Valley)

Alcohol:

 13%

Comments:

 Pouilly-Fume is sometimes more difficult to find than the Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre, but its definitely worth it if you find one! The limestone soil produces light-bodied, citrusy, acidic wines with a minerally finish. I love the steely finish limestone gives to these grapes! Pouilly-Fume is rumored to be fuller bodied that its neighbor Sancerre. This wine in particular was aromatic, citrusy with that awesome minerality I was looking for - highly recommended!

Wine Photos:

 Honig on right; Pouilly-Fume on left.

Next time you are at the liquor store, considering buying your favorite grape from two different regions and do a comparison yourself! Until next time!

Cheers!