The Enthusiasts! NYC Wine Club: American Wine
"I want YOU to drink American Wine!"
Dear Enthusiasts! This month's wine club brings us back to the good, ol' U.S. of A -
get excited
- we are learning about the Wines of America!
Now before you all head to your wine cellars and grab your favorite bold Cabernet Sauvignon or creamy Chardonnay from California - take note - CA wines are
off limits.
That's right folks, this week we are examining American wines and totally not inviting the most popular kid in school.
So, let's talk history!
In case you didn't know, the U.S. has its own native grapes! The most common,
vitis lambrusca
, produces an exotic, but somewhat wild wines (at least for the Europeans). But these wild wines satisfied the local thirst and Americans kept producing wine. Until, duh... duh... duh... Prohibition. This "dry legislation" resulted in the uprooting of hundreds of vineyards and the destruction of the wine industry. Prohibition, together with the Great Depression and those pesky World Wars left the American wine industry very out-dated.
Yet around the 1960s, Americans began to produce wine from
vitis vinifera
grapes and eventually the great Europeans regions began to sense the competition. Today, wine all across American is recognized internationally.
U.S. Appellation System.
So what will you see on the wine label?? Historically, much of American wine is organized around the political borders of the 50 states. However, much of the major wine regions are organized into
Approved Viticultural Areas
(AVAs), based on geography and climate. You may think, this sounds similar to the European tradition of placing the village or vineyard on the label. However, I still think it is extremely uncommon for American winemakers to label based on region or sub-region without also putting at least the state or grape on the bottle as well.
A Few Fun Facts...
- The U.S. is the world's #1 consumer of wine (passing France in 2010).
- The most popular varietals in the U.S. are: #1 Chardonnay, #2 Cabernet, #3 Merlot.
- Only grape names approved by the TTB are allowed to be used on labels, currently there are 312 varietals approved.
Now we know that wine is produced in all 50 states (yes even Alaska). But, I know we don't have time talk about everything from Alaska to Wyoming, so I have featured the top 15 based on wine production:
1. New York (3.692% of US Production).
Leave it to the Empire State to come in at #2 after California, who produces nearly 90% of American wine. Most wine nerds argue that New York has the greatest potential for wine-making in the Atlantic Northeast, but isn't quite reaching that potential yet. Biggest problem - New York is still producing wine with native grapes (thus not using the major players consumers are used to from Europe). Yet, the New York soil does yield some interesting wines (mostly shale, slate, schist and limestone). So check out Long Island, Hudson River Valley and the Finger Lakes wine regions.
2. Washington State (3.250% of US Production).
Until 1889, when Washington became the 42nd state, there was an issue of sovereignty because Spanish, American Colonists and British had all claimed the land as theirs. Identity issues aside, the Pacific Northwest produces some great wines, focusing on Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and Syrah. Best recent vintage for Pacific Northwest was 2008.
3. Oregon (0.906%).
Much of Oregon's success actually came from new winemakers who decided to dropout of California and set up shop in a different region. Specifically, winemakers from Hill Crest, The Eyrie Vineyards and Tualatin were some of the early producers that helped establish Oregon as a notable wine region.
Primary varieties grown here include Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Favorite regions include Columbia Valley (which includes Walla Walla and Yakima) and Willamette Valley.
4.
Pennsylvania (0.476%).
Man, in Pennsylvania all roads lead back to William Penn. Penn established the first vineyard in PA in 1683 (unfortunately, it failed). But lasting wine producing success can be linked to Conrad Weiser in 1729. The most successful varietal in the state is Chambourcin, a native grape known for its tough resistance to rot and producing Beaujolais-like red wine.
5. Ohio (0.440%).
Ohio may be the dark horse of the Atlantic Northeast. Back in the 1860s, it rivaled California for vineyard acreage. While the vineyards dwindled for much of the 19th century, there has been expansion lately. The most popular varietal grown there is Catawba, a
lambrusca x vinifera
hybrid, known for its "foxy" aroma. Some notable wine regions include: Grand River Valley, Isle St. George, Loramie Creek, Lake Erie and the Ohio River Valley.
6. Kentucky (0.316%).
There are approximately 65 wineries and 4 vineyards in Kentucky. Most stick to growing the native American grapes and there has been some success with the American-French hybrids. One notable
vinifera
producer is Chrisman Mill, known for their Cabernet Sauvignon. Or... you could stick to drinking Bourbon, we all know Kentucky does that well.
7. Missouri (0.270%).
The "King of Missouri grapes" is Norton. Norton is a black grape variety (sometimes called Cynthiana) native to the United States
without
a "foxy aroma." (And while I don't know what "foxy" means in terms in flavor, I think going without it is a good thing). The wine made from these grapes can been tannin and high in acid. Producers to look for - Mount Pleasant Vineyards and Stonehill Winery.
8.
Florida (0.258%).
The first wines in FL were made around 1563. Beware the local grape, Muscadine (not to be confused as a member of the Muscadelle family), its not too tasty. Its safer to try some of their fruit based wines. Yes, they make wine with oranges, key lime, mango and passion fruit in Florida!
9. New Jersey (0.207%).
New Jersey is actually more famous for cider rather than wine, but actually produced the first American wine to win an international award. In 1767, two NJ vintners were recognized by London's Royal Society of the Arts. Today, there are approximately 32 vineyards but no major recognition of late.
10. Texas (0.182%).
Who knew the Lone Star State made wine in addition to great BBQ. Much of France should be indebted to Texas winemakers because it was Thomas Volney Munson who saved the phylloxera-infected vines by sending Texas rootstock. Producers to look for - Caprock (aka Teysha Cellars), Flat Creek Estate, and Messina Hof Wine Cellars.
11. Michigan (0.179%).
Initially, Michigan vintners only grew native grapes, but around the 1960s there was a major transition to French hybrids. What is interesting about Michigan is the soil - glacial scree in Fennville. I don't know if glacial soil produces tasty wines, but its definitely something different! Wineries to look for: Left Foot Charley and 2 Lads.
12. Virginia (0.137%).
Despite Thomas Jefferson's attempts, Virginia was not the first state to make wine - that honor goes to Florida. Virginia was the first state to attempt to cultivate the
vinifera
grapes, but unfortunately most attempts failed due to the hot and humid growing season. (The heat leads to overripe grapes and the humidity encourages disease). The quality of each vineyard widely varies.
13. Colorado (0.046%).
Its a bit tough to actually grow grapes in Colorado, but the number of wineries is on the rise. In the past 20 years, the number of wineries has grown from five to ninety! The most popular varieties are Chardonnay and Merlot.
14. Maryland (0.045%).
Sadly, my home state of Maryland is not a major player, producing a mere 0.045% of American wine, and most of it is a fruity sugar bomb. But, Maryland has been making since 1662 (shout out to Lord Baltimore for that one!) and has three major wine regions: Catoctin, Cumberland Valley and Linganore. Look out for wine festivals that feature small producers because there is quality out there, its just hard to find. My favorite local winery - Boordy Vineyards (Who couldn't love a bottle of wine with a Terrapin on it - honestly!).
15. Idaho (0.042%).
For you east coasters (myself included) that aren't exactly sure where Idaho is on the map, its technically grouped with the Pacific Northwest when discussing U.S. wine. Wine production here is typically an extension of Washington State's Snake River, where extreme
diurnal*
differences create wines with high acidity and alcohol balance.
Primary varieties grown here include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling.
And that wraps up our overview of American Wines. While the International community makes a mean glass of fermented grapes, get out there in you local community and see what is available. You just may find something delicious!
Cheers!
*Wine Nerd Definitions...
diurnal, term used for extreme temperature variations between day and night (warm days and chilly nights).