Benchmark Wine Tasting Class: Aromatic Whites

Back in mid-January, I had the privilege to participate in a Benchmark Wine Tasting at Penn State University with the Penns Woods Winery crew. Needless to say, for a wine-nerd like me, it was an awesome experience! First of all, I got to taste approximately 30 different wines - made with different varietals and produced in different regions. But as an added bonus, it was interesting (and somewhat refreshing) to not be the biggest wine nerd in the room!

This series will discuss the wines that were tasted and provided an overview of the region and/or grape of each wine. To keep the posts (relatively) short, the series will be broken up into multiple posts, organized by the flights we tasted. First up, we tasted a flight of aromatic whites, including three Rieslings and two Gewürztraminers. I will also discuss the two Moscatos that we tasted at the end of the day, since Moscato (while sweet) is typically a highly aromatic white wine.

(Above are some of the labels we tried. These images are intended to identify the producer and not necessarily the specify wine/vintage).

So what is the definition of aromatic?

Webster's tells us that, generally, the term "aromatic" means "having a pleasant and distinctive smell." But, we know know that when it comes to wine - everything has multiple definitions. When I hear aromatic, I think white wine. I expect a strong, fruit-forward or almost floral, aroma from the wine. Officially speaking, wine professionals agree the most common winemaking techniques used in the production of "aromatic wines" include: fermentation in stainless steel or concrete and harvesting the grapes later in the harvest to yield high acidity and low alcohol wines.

So what should you look for in the wine store if you want an aromatic white? The most popular varietals include: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier. For now, our discussions will stick to a comparison of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Moscato.

Photo Source. The International Riesling Foundation (a fine foundation indeed!)

Riesling.

Call me a broken record, but Riesling has a bad rep... especially in the United States. Americans either love it or hate it, but most assume its a honeyed sugar bomb. I can not say it enough -- drop the Riesling assumptions and taste with an open mind. The blog has discussed Riesling a few times, check out the feature here, but we have yet to dedicate a full tasting to this noble grape. Before I give you my thoughts on the individual Rieslings, remember the grape's best qualities, including:

• Ability to withstand cooler climates, 
• Notably food friendly, and
• Light body and naturally high acidity.

Nimble Hill Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Pennsylvania, specifically Sugar Holland Vineyard.

My Thoughts. The room was amazed at the complexity of this Pennsylvania Riesling. I thought it was tart (in a good way), astringent and high acidity, with flavors of stone fruit and citrus.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was tart as well, but not nearly as astringent when tasted. The group thought it tasted of citrus, grapefruit and even petrol. (not sure where some get this taste from - I'm looking into it!)

S.A. Prum Kabinett Riesling 2009

Where it's from. Mosel, Germany.

My Thoughts. I think one of the reasons Americans (and wine-drinkers internationally) fear Riesling is the ever-daunting German wine label. Germans are nothing if not thorough, and so are the wine labels. So when you see "Kabinett" on the label, remember that the wine was made with late harvest grapes that can be semi-sweet or dry (trocken). When I tasted this wine, I was definitely intrigued. When I heard "Kabinett" I assumed it would be on the sweeter side - I was so wrong. It had a subtle sweet apple flavor without the overpowering honey.

Photo Source.

Gewürztraminer.

Gewürztraminer is distinguishable from Riesling because it has only moderate acidity and is full-bodied. It's primarily grown in the Alsace region of France. I notice the prominent bouquet of aromas from this grape, including: rose, passion fruit and lychee. 

Paul Buecher Gewürztraminer 2011

Where it's From. Alsace, France.

My Thoughts. This wine was awesome. It had a powerful floral aroma including rose and honeysuckle. But the taste was completely different from the aroma. It had an almost hoppy flavor, spicy up front with a mellow finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewürztraminer 2010

Where it's From. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was mild in flavor. Drinkable but nothing to write home about.

Photo Source. 

Moscato.

"Moscato" is the Italian name for the Muscat grape. It is known for making semi-sweet, lightly sparkling, and low alcohol wines

Montefiori Moscato

Where it's From. Piedmont, Italy. Moscato is most commonly grown near the northern town of Asti (hence the term Moscato D'Asti, meaning Moscato from Asti).

My Thoughts. This wine totally surprised me. As a fan of red wine and dryer reds I was expected to not enjoy this wine. But I loved it! (As did most of the room). It had a beautiful aroma of rose water, honeysuckle and lemon. It tasted similarly to it's smell and was wonderfully fresh. We compared it to Barefoot Moscato, which even given the price, was flat and less enjoyable than the Montefiori version.

All in all -- it was a great day of tasting wine! Stand by for follow up posts from this benchmark tasting series!

Cheers!

Winter Wine Project: Kung Fu Girl Riesling

This post will definitely put the "winter" in Winter Wine Project! Why? Because of all the snow! As a February baby, I have always loved winter. Sure it's chilly, but I love getting outside and then coming back home to warm up with some hot chocolate or coffee. This time around, however, I decided to warm up with a different drink of choice - wine! More specifically, the next wine from my winter wine project, the 2012 Kung Fu Girl Riesling from Washington State. Check out my review below, along with some fun action shots from my snow day!

My snow day, views from winery (bottom left) and the park near my house!

So fun fact about the Kung Fu Girl label, it was one of the first wine's I picked up early in my wine-drinking career. I had just turned 21 and I was visiting my sister in Boston. We stopped in a random wine store downtown and I saw the Kung Fu girl label and thought, "this is a fun label and I like riseling, so let's try it!" These days I go into the wine shop with a little more direction about what I may buy, but that goes to show that using a fun label that jumps off the shelf is definitely helpful in the U.S. wine market. With that said, I was so excited to see Kung Fu Girl on not only WS 100 Outstanding Values, but it made the cut for Top 100 Wines of 2013. Way to go Kung Fu Girl! I am excited to see if the wine lives up to both this ranking and the delicious wine that I remember. 

But first, let's chat about wine making in Washington State. This state produces the most wine in the U.S., after California of course. The top varietals grown in Washington include: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurtztraminer. But the most notable wines are often made with Merlot or Syrah grapes.

Charles Smith Riesling Columbia Valley Kung Fu Girl Evergreen 2012.

Grapes: 100% Riesling. Classically, Riesling produces white wines with a strong citrus flavor balanced with a complex minerality. Many of the best Rieslings are made in Alsace or Austria. Please don't knock this grape until you try it. Also, if you have a sweet Riesling that you don't like, keep trying them, it is definitely a complex grape that requires patience to appreciate because there are so many styles out there!

Where it's From: Washington State, Columbia Valley AVA (American Viticultural Areas). Columbia Valley is one of the largest AVAs in the United States, approximately 30,000 acres. Kung Fu Girl is grown specifically at Evergreen vineyard.

Alcohol: 11%

Winemaker's Notes: "This wine kicks ass with tons of complexity, showing shoes of white peach and slate. Focused acidity finishing with mandarin orange and lots of minerality." Pairs well with spicy dishes or grilled seafood.

My Thoughts: I have missed this wine!!! First thing you notice off the bat is the strong notes of peach - they were not lying! I can also smell hints of slate or stone (kind of like the smell of a stone beach - weird description I know!). The taste is awesome and definitely deserving of its awards - soft citrus fruit up front with the perfect bite of acidity at the end. You should run, not walk, to your nearest wine store and pick this up ASAP. I'm beginning to wonder if my skepticism against WS has been mistaken for all these years.

So that brings us to the end of today's tasting for the Winter Wine Project. Please be sure to share your thoughts in the comments below. Next time, we will be tasting A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2011, from Oregon. 

Happy Holidays and Cheers!

The Enthusiasts! NYC Wine Club: American Wine

"I want YOU to drink American Wine!"

Photo Source

Dear Enthusiasts! This month's wine club brings us back to the good, ol' U.S. of A -

get excited

- we are learning about the Wines of America!

Now before you all head to your wine cellars and grab your favorite bold Cabernet Sauvignon or creamy Chardonnay from California - take note - CA wines are

off limits.

 That's right folks, this week we are examining American wines and totally not inviting the most popular kid in school.

So, let's talk history!

  In case you didn't know, the U.S. has its own native grapes! The most common,

vitis lambrusca

, produces an exotic, but somewhat wild wines (at least for the Europeans). But these wild wines satisfied the local thirst and Americans kept producing wine. Until, duh... duh... duh... Prohibition. This "dry legislation" resulted in the uprooting of hundreds of vineyards and the destruction of the wine industry. Prohibition, together with the Great Depression and those pesky World Wars left the American wine industry very out-dated. 

Yet around the 1960s, Americans began to produce wine from

vitis vinifera

 grapes and eventually the great Europeans regions began to sense the competition. Today, wine all across American is recognized internationally.

U.S. Appellation System.

  So what will you see on the wine label?? Historically, much of American wine is organized around the political borders of the 50 states. However, much  of the major wine regions are organized into

Approved Viticultural Areas

 (AVAs), based on geography and climate. You may think, this sounds similar to the European tradition of placing the village or vineyard on the label. However, I still think it is extremely uncommon for American winemakers to label based on region or sub-region without also putting at least the state or grape on the bottle as well.

A Few Fun Facts...

• The U.S. is the world's #1 consumer of wine (passing France in 2010).
• The most popular varietals in the U.S. are: #1 Chardonnay, #2 Cabernet, #3 Merlot.
• Only grape names approved by the TTB are allowed to be used on labels, currently there are 312 varietals approved.

Now we know that wine is produced in all 50 states (yes even Alaska). But, I know we don't have time talk about everything from Alaska to Wyoming, so I have featured the top 15 based on wine production:

1. New York (3.692% of US Production).  

Leave it to the Empire State to come in at #2 after California, who produces nearly 90% of American wine. Most wine nerds argue that New York has the greatest potential for wine-making in the Atlantic Northeast, but isn't quite reaching that potential yet. Biggest problem - New York is still producing wine with native grapes (thus not using the major players consumers are used to from Europe). Yet, the New York soil does yield some interesting wines (mostly shale, slate, schist and limestone). So check out Long Island, Hudson River Valley and the Finger Lakes wine regions.

Photo Source

2. Washington State (3.250% of US Production).

  Until 1889, when Washington became the 42nd state, there was an issue of sovereignty because Spanish, American Colonists and British had all claimed the land as theirs. Identity issues aside, the Pacific Northwest produces some great wines, focusing on Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and Syrah. Best recent vintage for Pacific Northwest was 2008.

3. Oregon (0.906%).  

Much of Oregon's success actually came from new winemakers who decided to dropout of California and set up shop in a different region. Specifically, winemakers from Hill Crest, The Eyrie Vineyards and Tualatin were some of the early producers that helped establish Oregon as a notable wine region. 

Primary varieties grown here include Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Favorite regions include Columbia Valley (which includes Walla Walla and Yakima) and Willamette Valley.

4. 

Pennsylvania (0.476%).

  Man, in Pennsylvania all roads lead back to William Penn. Penn established the first vineyard in PA in 1683 (unfortunately, it failed). But lasting wine producing success can be linked to Conrad Weiser in 1729. The most successful varietal in the state is Chambourcin, a native grape known for its tough resistance to rot and producing Beaujolais-like red wine.

5. Ohio (0.440%).  

Ohio may be the dark horse of the Atlantic Northeast. Back in the 1860s, it rivaled California for vineyard acreage. While the vineyards dwindled for much of the 19th century, there has been expansion lately. The most popular varietal grown there is Catawba, a

lambrusca x vinifera

 hybrid, known for its "foxy" aroma. Some notable wine regions include: Grand River Valley, Isle St. George, Loramie Creek, Lake Erie and the Ohio River Valley.

Photo Source

6. Kentucky (0.316%).  

There are approximately 65 wineries and 4 vineyards in Kentucky. Most stick to growing the native American grapes and there has been some success with the American-French hybrids. One notable

vinifera

 producer is Chrisman Mill, known for their Cabernet Sauvignon. Or... you could stick to drinking Bourbon, we all know Kentucky does that well.

7. Missouri (0.270%).  

The "King of Missouri grapes" is Norton. Norton is a black grape variety (sometimes called Cynthiana) native to the United States

without

 a "foxy aroma." (And while I don't know what "foxy" means in terms in flavor, I think going without it is a good thing). The wine made from these grapes can been tannin and high in acid. Producers to look for - Mount Pleasant Vineyards and Stonehill Winery.

8. 

Florida (0.258%).

 The first wines in FL were made around 1563. Beware the local grape, Muscadine (not to be confused as a member of the Muscadelle family), its not too tasty. Its safer to try some of their fruit based wines. Yes, they make wine with oranges, key lime, mango and passion fruit in Florida!

9. New Jersey (0.207%).

 New Jersey is actually more famous for cider rather than wine, but actually produced the first American wine to win an international award. In 1767, two NJ vintners were recognized by London's Royal Society of the Arts. Today, there are approximately 32 vineyards but no major recognition of late. 

Photo Source

10. Texas (0.182%).  

Who knew the Lone Star State made wine in addition to great BBQ. Much of France should be indebted to Texas winemakers because it was Thomas Volney Munson who saved the phylloxera-infected vines by sending Texas rootstock. Producers to look for - Caprock (aka Teysha Cellars), Flat Creek Estate, and Messina Hof Wine Cellars.

11. Michigan (0.179%).

  Initially, Michigan vintners only grew native grapes, but around the 1960s there was a major transition to French hybrids. What is interesting about Michigan is the soil - glacial scree in Fennville. I don't know if glacial soil produces tasty wines, but its definitely something different! Wineries to look for: Left Foot Charley and 2 Lads.

12. Virginia (0.137%).

  Despite Thomas Jefferson's attempts, Virginia was not the first state to make wine - that honor goes to Florida. Virginia was the first state to attempt to cultivate the

vinifera

 grapes, but unfortunately most attempts failed due to the hot and humid growing season. (The heat leads to overripe grapes and the humidity encourages disease). The quality of each vineyard widely varies.

13. Colorado (0.046%).

  Its a bit tough to actually grow grapes in Colorado, but the number of wineries is on the rise. In the past 20 years, the number of wineries has grown from five to ninety! The most popular varieties are Chardonnay and Merlot.

Photo Source

14. Maryland (0.045%). 

 Sadly, my home state of Maryland is not a major player, producing a mere 0.045% of American wine, and most of it is a fruity sugar bomb. But, Maryland has been making since 1662 (shout out to Lord Baltimore for that one!) and has three major wine regions: Catoctin, Cumberland Valley and Linganore. Look out for wine festivals that feature small producers because there is quality out there, its just hard to find. My favorite local winery - Boordy Vineyards (Who couldn't love a bottle of wine with a Terrapin on it - honestly!).

15. Idaho (0.042%).  

For you east coasters (myself included) that aren't exactly sure where Idaho is on the map, its technically grouped with the Pacific Northwest when discussing U.S. wine. Wine production here is typically an extension of Washington State's Snake River, where extreme

diurnal* 

differences create wines with high acidity and alcohol balance. 

Primary varieties grown here include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling.

And that wraps up our overview of American Wines. While the International community makes a mean glass of fermented grapes, get out there in you local community and see what is available. You just may find something delicious!

Cheers!

*Wine Nerd Definitions...

 diurnal, term used for extreme temperature variations between day and night (warm days and chilly nights).